Dissection of the Saluki Breed Standard
As analyzed by Terri Fortner-Jackson, Hidasar Salukis
Breeder of Salukis since 1971, AKC judge and mentor.

Once again I come away from the Dog Shows wondering, where did that judge learn to judge Salukis! I find a
basic lack of knowledge as to form = function. Our standard is quite specific as to what is asked for in an
athletic hound; it gives you the basic form to build upon and allows breeders to add personal preference to the
finer points.
I start with the General Appearance to build the foundation for the dissimilation of the Saluki. The Standard is
in Bold, my comments and interpositions are in regular type.
THE SALUKI BREED STANDARD
AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB

Official Standard for the SALUKI ©

General Appearance
The whole appearance of this breed should give an impression of grace and symmetry and of great
speed and endurance coupled with strength and activity to enable it to kill gazelle or other quarry
over deep sand or rocky mountains.
Right away you should know to look for a balanced, well muscled Saluki. In the countries of origin, the Salukis
were bred to hunt. The prey was gazelle, rabbit, and other meat for the pot. Type varied more to local terrain, a
larger dog could run faster over a straighter course, a smaller one could have an advantage turning, but both
would have to be in condition, be it a sprint or a distance run. Topline, feet, front construction, and rear
assembly, all come into play to enable the Salukis to run, turn, catch, hold and dispatch its prey. So as you will
see as we delve into the standard, how all the information is relevant to what makes the Saluki a Saluki.
Head
Long and narrow, skull moderately wide between the ears, not domed, stop not pronounced, the
whole showing great quality.
Although not a “head breed”, you should be able to look at the head and know it is a Saluki. As you can tell
from the description, moderately (meaning not large, great, or severe) wide (having considerable or great
extent from side to side) between the ears, gives you a wedge shape rather than a pencil shape. The head
should be balanced in that the back skull and muzzle should be of the relative same length.  When viewed from
the side the head should not be down faced or banana headed, nor should the stop be excessive. The head
should be chiseled with prominent check bones (this varies to the taste of the breeder to type). The underjaw
is strong and punishing, this is to hold prey.
Excellent Dog Outline: Good balance
of rear and shoulder angulation, long
rib cage to a good tuck up. Excellent
flow of neck into shoulders to topline.
Nose black or liver. Ears Long and covered with long silky hair hanging close to the skull and mobile.
Eyes Dark to hazel and bright; large and oval, but not prominent. Teeth Strong and level.
The ears are high set and mobile, when alert they can pull higher off of the top of the skull. Round or small eyes
are not desirable, a scissors bite is most common. Dark pigment is preferred, in lighter colored dogs and
chocolates the pigment may be more liver than black. The teeth are strong again, to hold prey, which indicates full
dentition.
Neck
Long, supple and well muscled.
The strength to hold and kill prey is found in the neck, a weak neck does not allow the power to hold or carry
prey. The neck should be thick at the base to flow into the shoulder and back and long to the head with a nice
crest. A ewe neck (arched so that the top line of the neck is concave and the bottom is convex), a goose neck
(overly long, thin neck lacking strength and shape) or a bull-neck (thick and short) are not correct for the Saluki.
Chest
Deep and moderately narrow.
From the side the chest should be deep (extending a long way from top to bottom). When viewed from the front,
moderately (not large, great, or severe) narrow (having a small width, especially in comparison to height or
length). When moving the elbows should stay in line with the body, excessive movement outwards or popping out
at the elbows, indicates too wide of a front or overly sprung in ribs. The elbows should not touch as this indicates
too narrow, herring gutted (gradual slope from a fairly shallow chest to tuck-up), or shelly (narrow, shallow chest
and body),  and not enough depth. The brisket should show fill in the sternum area, but not pigeon breasted.
Excessive elbowing and throwing of the legs is indicative of too narrow or shallow.
Forequarters
Shoulders sloping and set well back, well muscled without being coarse.
The length of the shoulder should approximate the length of the upper arm, the shoulder angulation should be
balanced and long. A short upper arm should be penalized, as it does not allow for free movement of the
shoulder, arm and elbow. You will tend to see a choppy or restricted side movement when the upper arm is
short. Upright, straight or protruding shoulders, give high withers, which is not correct for the breed. You will
see a pounding or up and down movement with no forward reach from the side. Well muscled, but not loaded,
the side movement with a correct front assembly should be free, light, effortless and easy.

Forelegs Straight and long from the elbow to the knee.
Salukis have a flat bone when viewed from the front, the forelegs should be of a good length even with a deep
chest. The ribs should have a relatively good spring, in proportion to the body. They should not be flat or barrel
chested. The appearance should not be of short front legs. The feet should point slightly out or straight, the
feet should not point inwards. My favorite analogy is to think about walking on sand or a soft surface, your feet
will naturally go outwards to push yourself along. If you purposely walk with your toes pointing inward, you will
fall on your face.
Hindquarters
Strong, hipbones set well apart and stifle moderately bent, hocks low to the ground, showing
galloping and jumping power.
I think the first line of this gives most people trouble, you do not have to see the complete hipbone to see they
are well set apart. Once you put this description with the Loin and Back you will understand why. The stifle (or
knee) is moderately (not large, great, or severe) bent, which indicates it is not straight, nor is it overly
angulated. The rear angulation should be balanced with the front angulation, an overly angulated Salukis will
overreach (Fault in the trot caused by more angulation and drive from behind than in front so that the rear feet
are forced to step to one side of the forefeet to avoid interfering or clipping). The hock length is short (well let
down) and the rear quarters are well muscled, this includes a well muscled second thigh
Example A: Down face, domed head,
thin neck, pigeon breasted, high
withers, flat topline, lack of tuckup, flat
feet, upright pastern
Example B:  Pronounced stop, Ewe
neck, over angulated front, high
withers, flat topline with too much
break in back, flat feet, over angulated
rear, short tail set on too high
Example C: Thin neck, straight front
with short upper arm, high withers,
herring gut (tuck up starts too soon),
straight rear with high hock
Example D: too wide in front, pigeon
toes (toes point in), out at elbow
Example E: Correct outline
Example G: Correct front